Chauden for potage

PERIOD: England, 14th century | SOURCE: Utilis Coquinario | CLASS: Authentic

DESCRIPTION: A meat pottage

ORIGINAL RECEIPT:

6. Chauden for potage. Take þe lyuere & þe lunges of þe ert & þe mederyiu & þe guttes, & score hem with salt & seth hem al togedere, & hew hem smale. & tak bred & peper & grynde togedere, & tempere it vp with þe broth. & coloure it with þe blod, & hew þe chauden & do it þerto, & lye vp with þe yelkes of eyren. & if þou do brauens þerto, coloure it with safroun.

- Hieatt, Constance B. and Sharon Butler. Curye on Inglish: English Culinary Manuscripts of the Fourteenth-Century (Including the Forme of Cury). New York: for The Early English Text Society by the Oxford University Press, 1985.

GODE COOKERY TRANSLATION:

Chauden for pottage. Take the liver & the lungs of the hart & the midriff & the guts, & scour them with salt & boil them all together, & hew them small. & take bread & pepper & grind together, & temper it up with the broth. & colour it with the blood, & hew the chauden & do it thereto, & mix it up with yolks of eggs. & if you do brawn thereto, colour it with saffron.

INGREDIENTS:

• The liver, heart, and any other obtainable sweetmeats (except the brain) of venison or beef
• Unseasoned toasted breadcrumbs
• Black pepper & salt
• Venison or beef broth
• Egg yolks, beaten
• Optional: shredded dark meat of cooked chicken or pork OR: cooked and sliced venison or beef brains (see note)
• Saffron or few drops yellow food coloring (optional)

Chop the liver & sweetmeats into stewing size chunks; boil until done. Remove from the water and drain well. Pass the meat through a food processor (or equivalent device) along with the breadcrumbs and broth until you have a smooth & thick gravy-like consistency. Place in a saucepot and bring to a soft boil; reduce heat to simmer. Add the salt & pepper. Beat in the egg yolks. Allow to cook for several minutes, then serve as a thick soup or an accompaniment to meats. OPTION: after beating in the egg yolks, add shredded pork or chicken (or the prepared brains) along with a few pinches of saffron or drops of yellow food coloring. Allow to cook for several minutes, then serve as a thick soup or an accompaniment to meats.

Constance B. Hieatt suggests "brains" as a possible translation for brauens, but is unsure herself if this is the case; "brawn" could be just as equally correct. The choice is yours. While cooked brains would certainly not be out of place in this dish, the shredded pork or chicken makes it a more familiar and comfortable offering for modern diners.

Scouring the offal of venison with salt was a necessary procedure in the Middle Ages, but the relative cleanliness of modern meat products has eliminated the need for this.

The toasted breadcrumbs act as a coloring agent substitute for the blood; see this described in Heyroun.